https://watch-repair-part.net Thu, 23 Apr 2026 12:12:05 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=4.1.1 https://watch-repair-part.net/2024/10/23/vintage-1970s-paul-peugeot-le-jour-diver-withpristine-dial-runs-for-partsrepair/ https://watch-repair-part.net/2024/10/23/vintage-1970s-paul-peugeot-le-jour-diver-withpristine-dial-runs-for-partsrepair/#comments Wed, 23 Oct 2024 08:09:49 +0000 https://watch-repair-part.net/2024/10/23/vintage-1970s-paul-peugeot-le-jour-diver-withpristine-dial-runs-for-partsrepair/ Read more]]>

















Although the FHF ST 96-4 manual wind movement runs an approximate 33 hour power reserve period and the date wheel rolls over as it should the hour and minute hands don’t want to move on their own, suggesting that at a minimum the cannon pinion likely needs tightening. Additionally, after winding the crowns it’s necessary to gently spin the watch face down on a soft, flat surface in order to jump start the seconds hand. Given these issues and considering the movement’s unknown service history a complete overhaul is long overdue and required. This seldom seen vintage 1970’s Paul Peugeot Le Jour diver, which came from the estate of its original owner, has a pristine glossy black “T SWISS T” signed dial. Any imperfections seen are on the crystal, not the dial. The subtle pistachio hued lume emits a quick burst glow after being exposed to bright light. The black fat font bezel, which shows wear and rotates bidirectionally with an appropriate amount of tension, presents nicely. The chrome-plated case shows considerable wear and brassing. The outer edge of the case back is stamped “WATERPROOF – STAINLESS STEEL BACK – SHOCKRESISTANT” with “GUARANTEED 5 ATM TESTED – SWISS MADE” stamped along the inner edge. The inside of the case back is stamped LE JOUR TIME CO. ” followed by “SWISS MADE. The crystal should be replaced. The 17 jewels unadjusted Swiss LE JOUR TIME Co. However, the minute and hour hands don’t want to move on their own, suggesting that at a minimum the cannon pinion likely needs tightening. Additionally, after winding the crown it’s necessary to gently spin this watch face down on a soft, flat surface in order to jump start the seconds hand. The semi-quickset date function works flawlessly by manually rolling over a new date and then moving the hour hand repeatedly between the 20 and 24 hour marks until the desired date has been reached. After recently winding the brassed, non-screwdown crown 37 full revolutions the movement had an approximate 33 hour power reserve. The crown winds smoothly. A complete overhaul is long overdue and required. This watch measures approximately 35 mm excluding the crown, approximately 38 mm including the crown and approximately 18 mm between the lugs. Case thickness, measured from the bottom of the case back to the top of the bezel, is approximately 7 mm. Including the crystal thickness measures approximately 9 mm. As such there are no warranties, express or implied, attached with the sale of this watch. Vintage means old and while my personal belief is that old-school means better quality and workmanship, things can and do go wrong from time to time. For this watch that time is now. Any servicing costs going forward are your responsibility. And please study the 16 high magnification pictures carefully as they are part of the description and serve as an accurate representation of the condition of this watch.

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The movement does not run as t. He crown cannot be wound. It’s likely that the mainspring needs to be replaced, at a minimum. Given this and considering that the movement has likely never been serviced a complete overhaul is required. This seldom seen vintage 1970’s Customtime complete set came from the estate of its original owner who had it tucked away unworn for the past 25 years. The black “T SWISS MADE T” signed dial is in pristine condition and the original tritium on the dial and hands, which remains fully intact and emits a faint, short-lived glow after being exposed to bright light, has aged to a perfectly matching warm buttermilk hue. The black bezel, which shows wear and very stiffly rotates bidirectionally, presents nicely. The chrome-plated case shows minor wear with no visible signs of oxidation. The outer edge of the case back is stamped “WATERRESISTANT – SWISS MADE – STAINLESS STEEL BACK – BASE METAL BEZEL” with a diver and a fish stamped in the center. The crystal shows scratching. While I normally shows pictures of the movements of watches I put up for sale the case back on this watch is torqued too tight for me to remove. The manual wind movement with quickset date function does not run and the non-screwdown crown cannot be wound, likely indicating that the mainspring needs to be replaced. The time can be set without issue and the quickset date function works flawlessly by manually rolling over a new date and then moving the hour hand repeatedly between the 21 and 24 hour marks until the desired date has been reached. Given that the movement does not run a complete overhaul is required. This watch measures approximately 36 mm excluding the crown, approximately 39 mm including the crown and approximately 18 mm between the lugs. Case thickness, measured from the bottom of the case back to the top of the bezel, is approximately 9.5 mm. Including the crystal case thickness measures approximately 11 mm. This watch comes on its original “L/34/18″ stamped rubber strap with “HONG KONG STAINLESS STEEL” stamped buckle showing little wear. While the interior of the original box shows age-related wear the exterior is well-preserved. As such there are no warranties, express or implied, attached with the sale of this watch. Vintage means old and while my personal belief is that old-school means better quality and workmanship, things can and do go wrong from time to time. For this watch that time is now. Any servicing costs going forward are your responsibility. And please study the 12 high magnification pictures carefully as they are part of the description and serve as an accurate representation of the condition of this watch.

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